Day 23: Cahors to Lascabanes

~15 miles, a few hills, lots of sun and very hot

The last two days were long days, and today was long and very hot and probably one of the more challenging days we have had yet. Despite the high temperatures (into the 90s), we decided we would walk and do our best to stay cool and hydrated. With only two days left, we didn’t want to miss out on being immersed in this place. I was also promised sunflowers by my guide book, which would make even the biggest challenge worth it.

We had heard that the hike out of Cahors was particularly steep and challenging, however we found it manageable and relatively short compared to many of our difficult ascents. There were large rock steps and it was definitely steep, but if you walked all the way from Le Puy, it should not feel any more difficult than much of what was already encountered.

As we left the Lot Valley the scenery rapidly changed, becoming more arid and open. Even the style of homes transformed; perhaps a more modern Mediterranean feel.

We were also coming close to the halfway point of the Via Podiensis and there seemed to be a shift in who was walking. Many more solo folks than we had seen before, possibly those hoping to make it all the way to Santiago.

Today was only the second time we found a place to eat a sit-down meal along our route for lunch, and it saved the day! Breakfast had been particularly sparse (French breakfast tends to be bread with butter and jam, yogurt, coffee/tea, juice, and maybe a coffee cake. If you are extra lucky, you might get some cheese and meat, but that’s rare. Croissants are always a treat, but also fairly rare) and my yogurt with coffee cake was not giving me the energy I needed to walk 15 miles.

After lunch we had many hours of walking in the hot afternoon sun with little shade. I missed my (lost) umbrella and hoped that my sunscreen would keep me protected. It was a hard day, but in the end a good and memorable one. I’m glad we went for it!

Our accommodation for the evening was absolutely fabulous! We stayed at the Chambre d’Hôtes, Les Hauts de Lascabanes. Our little cabin was like staying in a treehouse. Our hosts were, of course, wonderful and prepared a delicious meal of shrimp, rice, and veggies. They also shared copious amounts of local rosé, which we fully enjoyed! There was one other couple, and their 14 month old son, staying the night. They were British living in Antigua and on holiday in France. It was nice to be able to converse in English for the evening, something quite rare on this trip (and of course not the reason we came to France, but nice all the same). Our evening concluded with warnings of a Thunderstorm, which ended up being quite the event! We were woken up around 3am to giant hail, brilliant lightning, and cracking thunder.