Day 9: Saint-Chély-d’Aubrac to Saint-Côme-d’Olt

~11 miles, lots of downhill

Another very challenging day. It started off quite lovely, with some of the best trail we have walked so far, but ended on rough, sun exposed trail, and very hot temperatures (over 90 degrees). We also met an adorable donkey being walked by a French couple and their dog (walking a Camino with a donkey is an ancient Pilgrim tradition). We assumed that this was something this couple did regularly, however we later learned they had rented the donkey (apparently that’s a thing here) and would be walking with him for four days. I’m not sure how I feel about the idea that people can rent a donkey, as it seems more for show than any real kind of relationship between people and animals and a pilgrimage walk, but I also try not to judge anyone else’s Camino. The donkey was very cute though.

As we continued our descent into the Lot Valley, my map app said there was a place to stop for a cold beverage a few miles ahead (and then there were signs on the trail indicating the place was up ahead and open 7 days a week), but of course when we got there it was closed. The last two miles into town were brutal. No shade, very hot, and my feet and knees were exhausted from the 2000 ft of descent we had just done.

When we finally made it to the valley floor, I went straight for the river and immersed myself in the frigid water to bring my body temperature down. I have never been so happy to find a body of water before!

Our B&B, Au Pont d’Olt, was absolutely wonderful! The hosts were about our age and interesting to talk to. They were also incredible cooks! Cintia was from Brazil and made a Brazilian beef stew with both Aubrac and the local lowland beef. The dinner was delicious, our room had amazing views, and we loved connecting with the hosts. This is definitely a place we will remember and recommend!